The Monster Horsepower Villain IV project ...

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  • gsbuickman
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2011
    • 1292

    #1

    The Monster Horsepower Villain IV project ...

    Hiya Guy's ,

    It's been awhile since I've done a boat build thread here on the board since I put my boats on the back burner and decided to focus on other things for the last couple of years. Well, I decided to pick up a couple more R/C's just to have around 2 play with once in a while.

    I ended up picking up a really nice Venom King of Shaves ver.2, then I started looking around for another Traxxas villain IV for a project because I just can't get enough of them apparently and I realized just how scarce and expensive they're getting to be so I decided I better pick one up while I still could. Well, now that I have the boat & the last couple parts I was waiting on showed up in my mailbox today I can finally get another Villlain project started :) ..

    Alrighty, here's what I have to start with guys, a 30+ yr old Traxxas Villain IV Chaparrel ABS hull that's already been gutted & is still in nice shape. The only Factory Hardware that I'll be reusing are the 4mm driveshafts, Factory gearing and the twin steerable outdrives which is what makes these boats so awesome, everything else will be filed in the garbage can.

    The Villain was originally advertised for something like 17 mph in the late 1980's (86'-87') but you were lucky if you actually saw that speed out of them. The Hull design isn't much good for anything over 35MPH so going brushless is a waste of $ and time, even with the newer updated Traxxas villain EX because they never changed the Hull design. They just threw the Traxxas E-maxx Electronics in it and threw a different set of stickers on it and called it good to go.

    My plans for the boat are to run a consistent 30-35mph which isn't hard to do these days even with brushed power not to mention there is a real kick in the butt to drive once you get them setup. I'll be using a few Villain EX upgrades, some nice upgrades from Steven and a few other goodies that look something like this :

    Twin Trinity Monster Horsepower motors. 40k rpm's @ 7.4v & 80k @ 14.4 but with the factory gear reduction the props spin at half the speed of the motors.

    A Traxxas AEVX2 Aircooled esc w/ lvc that'll handle 4s power. The EVX2 marine doesn't have lvc & their notorious for melting the plastic water cooling blocks and frying.

    Traxxas #1575 motor water cooling kit & led silicone hose from Steven.

    4mm gold-plated bullet connectors for esc to motor connections.

    JX PDI-6221 MG servo rated @ 250oz. Even if it's 1/2 that it's more than enough.

    11/32" k&s tubing for oversized stuffing tubes that'll accept flanged bearings reducing rolling resistance in the drives and strain on the motors.

    Traxxas #1521R motor mounts / blue aluminum motor plate kit that, aligns the drives & eliminates the torsional stress from the old motor mount design

    Traxxas #1577 push rod boots
    Traxxas #1539R universal joints (2).
    Traxxas #1531villain / blast trim tabs

    (8) 4x8x3 metal shielded flanged bearings from RC Boys in salt Lake to replace the oilite bushings in the stuffing tubes & out drives reducing rolling resistance in the drives and outdrives as well as the motors and increasing rpm's.

    A nice pair of CNC aluminum 48mm 4814250 counter-rotating props, conversion shafts, Drive dogs, prop nuts and bullet nuts from Steven. These should be lighter then the X447's I usually run on Villains which should reduce the rotating weight & optimize rpm's.

    I'll be running my 6000mah 35c 2s Rev-Tech lipos on TRX connectors . In this case I think they should be just fine instead of running the usual 5.5mm gold plated bullets I usually run ...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by gsbuickman; 05-18-2018, 09:20 PM.
  • gsbuickman
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2011
    • 1292

    #2
    ....
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • properchopper
      • Apr 2007
      • 6968

      #3
      I've always regretted not buying one. I'll just hitch a ride on this build thread
      2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
      2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
      '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

      Comment

      • Lone-Wolf
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2015
        • 276

        #4
        This is really cool and look forward to how it all comes together.

        Early 2000's and mine at the time was eventually modded with a gear drive and 700 motor, you said it right with regards to 35mph being it's peak, that was right where I had it, total blast to run but above that and chine walk was to blame. I think it's neat that you are staying with brushed twins, something about those motors...and their smell and maintenance...kinda like comparing an old small block Chevy to a Tesla...which one has more character? ;-)

        I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one but would go the BL route, low Kv single running parallel packs for tons of runtime and no heat...heck I'm sure a $25 BL motor and a 50amp esc would be more than enough.

        Good luck with it...watching!

        Comment

        • properchopper
          • Apr 2007
          • 6968

          #5
          I went through several of those plastic U-joints on my Twinstorm outdrive until I started using these :

          https://www.amazon.com/Products-Meta.../dp/B06XK848S7
          2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
          2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
          '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

          Comment

          • gsbuickman
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jul 2011
            • 1292

            #6
            Originally posted by Lone-Wolf
            This is really cool and look forward to how it all comes together.

            Early 2000's and mine at the time was eventually modded with a gear drive and 700 motor, you said it right with regards to 35mph being it's peak, that was right where I had it, total blast to run but above that and chine walk was to blame. I think it's neat that you are staying with brushed twins, something about those motors...and their smell and maintenance...kinda like comparing an old small block Chevy to a Tesla...which one has more character? ;-)

            I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one but would go the BL route, low Kv single running parallel packs for tons of runtime and no heat...heck I'm sure a $25 BL motor and a 50amp esc would be more than enough.

            Good luck with it...watching!
            Thanks I've done several villain builds here on the board a few years back, I just decided it was time to do another one. Here's one that I done with twin HPI GT-550 ESavage motors on the X447 prop kit that I ordered from fun RC boats. Naturally there will be similarities between that build and this one only this boat will be lighter and should be a little faster

            https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...per&highlight=

            Comment

            • srislash
              Not there yet
              • Mar 2011
              • 7673

              #7
              Well hello once again old friend. Glad to see you into another Villian

              Comment

              • Lone-Wolf
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2015
                • 276

                #8
                Cool, thanks for the link!

                Keep us updated.

                Comment

                • gsbuickman
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2011
                  • 1292

                  #9
                  Originally posted by srislash
                  Well hello once again old friend. Glad to see you into another Villian

                  Howdy Shawn , it's definitely been a while but you know me, I just can't get enough of these old Dylan boats ...

                  Comment

                  • gsbuickman
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Jul 2011
                    • 1292

                    #10
                    Ok , I finally got a little time this evening to get some work done on this thing. I started by using a graduated drill bit or step bit as I called them to ream out the holes in the rear transom to accept the new oversize stuffing tubes after I chopped that length of 11/32 k&s brass tube in half. I renamed the holes out with the drill bit by hand because you never want to use a drill on these things because you're only taking off a little bit of material and you want to keep the fit around the stuffing tubes as snug as possible so they still up nice and support the tubes.

                    Then I chucked a 1/4" drill bit in my drill and very carefully used it to ream out the new motor mounts to accept the oversize stuffing tubes. I did the majority of the work by hand turning the motor mounts on the bit by hand to slowly rename it out enough to get the stuffing tubes two-seat where they should be and I used the drill mostly in Reverse to clear out the little pieces and smooth them out. With that finally done I got the aluminum motor mount plate bolted to the motor mounts that will eliminate the torsional stress that the factory motor mounts cause without a plate on them, then I did a dry fit of the stuffing tubes in the motor mounts to see how much I need to trim off of them to even them up before installing the bearings and drive shafts.
                    Attached Files

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                    • gsbuickman
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 1292

                      #11
                      ....
                      Attached Files

                      Comment

                      • gsbuickman
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Jul 2011
                        • 1292

                        #12
                        Originally posted by properchopper
                        I went through several of those plastic U-joints on my Twinstorm outdrive until I started using these :

                        https://www.amazon.com/Products-Meta.../dp/B06XK848S7
                        Thanks Tony . I might just have to order a pair of those if I have trouble with these. Surprisingly I've never had any trouble with the factory Traxxas U-joints on villain boats, even with 4S power. I tried the Graupner U-Joints but the carbon fiber or whatever they were made from was too hard and riddle and broke easily which is probably why they quit making them. These are the new upgraded heavy duty Traxxas U joints but I've never run them before so I'll wait and see how they do. Too bad no one makes 4 mm bore Spur Gears to replace the nylon gears in these. The closest that I found is either 3.175 or 5mm bore. I almost bought a couple sets of the 3.175 bore Spur Gears that I found but I think I'd have a real hard time squeezing them onto 4mm drive shafta?? ..

                        Last edited by gsbuickman; 05-20-2018, 12:04 PM.

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                        • gsbuickman
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jul 2011
                          • 1292

                          #13
                          Note to self : next time I rename out a set of these motor mounts to accept the larger oversized stuffing tubes, DO NOT use the 1/4" bit on the left, it's way too aggressive does nothing but hang up in The motor mount and it's a huge pain in the butt. Instead use the 1/4" woodworking bit on the right. It's a lot less aggressive, much faster and much easier.

                          With that being said, I used one of the original motor mounts that I took out of this boat and used my angle grinder with a metal cutting disc and cut the back section of the motor mount off to eliminate the stuffing tube clamp because it just gets in the way of things. Then I used a 5/32" drill bit to Rheem out the hole in the motor mount where the grease zerk goes for greasing the drive shaft stuffing tube and turned the motor mount into a drill guide for drilling the stuffing tubes where the grease zerts go. Now to move on to getting the stuffing tubes trimmed then getting the bearings and driveshafts set up ...
                          Attached Files

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                          • gsbuickman
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Jul 2011
                            • 1292

                            #14
                            I got the stuffing tubes trimmed appropriately then got the flanged bearings and drive shafts installed in them and got the tubes installed back in the boat and threw the spur gears on.

                            With that done I grabbed one of the unibits from my unibit set that I picked up at Harbor Freight and used it to remap out the outdrives and get rid of the ridge that the factory oilite bushings seat against to make room for the larger flanged bearings, then I got the props and prop shafts installed in the outdrives with the new bearings ..
                            Attached Files

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                            • gsbuickman
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Jul 2011
                              • 1292

                              #15
                              Hiya Guys

                              I just got the struts mounted up to the rear transom then mounted up the loaded drives, then got the new push rod boots popped into place in the rear transom. For some silly reason I no longer have the correct size Allen wrench to put the new u-joints on. I have one size too small and one size too large so it looks like I need to buy a new set of metric Allen wrenches so I can get the driveshafts coupled to the prop shafts. Until then, movin' on to other things ...
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