Kyosho steerable outdrive help

[Mattwarner]

Hi, I have a twin storm and attempted to upgrade to a u-joint as the standard cup and ball apparently wears quickly, especially running 14 cells and upgraded motors,

I've made a bit of a mess and a) haven't lined the u joint with the pivot point and b) didn't realise the outdrive side was larger than the 4mm shaft the prop sits onand having trimmed it's not centred and vibrates especially when turning :-( to make matters worse I dremmel'd the grub screws as they stuck out miles and now can't undo them!

Has anyone got any recommendations? I am new to this and already wish I brought a better boat to start with

Thanks

[Jesse J]

I would buy a different boat to start (again) with. Without a pic of your current set up, can't really say for sure; but I suspect you may have a moneypit on your hands and never really be happy with outcome. there are quite a few good rtr boats out there all using flex shafts - the u-joints have become serious weak link with today's power and why they aren't used in the newer designs.

[Mattwarner]

Thanks my plan is to fix it and sell it, am I right in thinking I could change to a flex drive and do away with the uj?

[MR2NR]

Im about in the same boat. (pardon the pun) I am trying to go brushless in a Jetstream but the 5mm shafts are giving me headaches. I am going to drill out the gear and hope it holds. I like my solid shaft because of how quiet it is but it feels like im piloting a sailboat

[Mattwarner]

What have you done about the shafts on the jetstream? There is definitely a limit to these boats potential and it's not much more than stock

[MR2NR]

It still pretty stock with minor upgrades like adding washers/ bushings to the rear exit bushing to make it stay in the tube and aligning the outdrive to make the least possible noise and the least possible binding while turning. I have put a 48mm ProBoat prop on it (Had to shim it) and that's about it. I guess I am just going to go on a whim to see if the gearing hold up as that will be my weakest point right next to the UJoint. There is another member here that has done a lot to his JS but it sits on his wall :). I see you have already posted on the forum he spoke to me about. I plan on taking things very slow and starting with a single 7.2 NIMh first. Then Parelleling it then going Lipo. I see now EVERYONE CHIMING IN ABOUT THE ADPATER I NEED lol. So I guess if it gives there I will be going direct. I am using a less powerful Motor also (Hobbywing 3660) So anyway we will see :). FOAM IS YOUR FRIEND LOL.

[MR2NR]

Id have to disagree with you at this point as I just got her up to 30mph. I'm not sure if they even gave you the option of running more than 7.2v back then but it was a huge improvement going to 14V.

[Mattwarner]

Good work! i am running two 8.4v packs, but then i am running two motors, i might just change to a single brushless what motor do you have and esc? ran mine last night and although the drive shaft problem is sorted i think my esc/rx is playing up as the boat now judders and as if there is bad connection somewhere or there is interference with the rx i am not having much fun at the moment!!

[MR2NR]

I am using Hobbywings 3060 motor and the 90A Seaking ESC I would have gone with the Leopard but I am still not direct so I thought I could save some money and time by going through HobbyPartz. I burnt up my Tamiya connections last night going full throttle and upgraded to 4mm Bullets. What type of TX RX setup do you have I'm using the FlySky 3SGTB and love it. My old AM Futaba would cut out also. I use a man made lake and it's fast enough I think any faster and all I'll be doing is turning and trying to keep it upright.

[Mattwarner]

I am using the standard Kyosho Perfex RX/TX so i am guessing that this may be giving me issues.